One of the city's most consistently stylish restaurants evokes a low-key, counterculture bistro, but its cuisine is grander and more cutting-edge than its industrial-looking decor and its level of hipness would imply. Wrapped in warm brick and cool steel, the Sapphire Grill has steeped itself in a history of fine culinary tradition. Christopher Nason is the owner and the most talked about chef of the moment in Savannah, preparing what he defines as a "coastal cuisine" based on seafood hauled in, usually on the day of its preparation, from nearby waters.